In the sea-clay pastures of North Holland, where the land lies low beneath the sea and the air carries a hint of salt, Cono Kaasmaker produces exceptional wheels of Gouda. The milk from this region is naturally rich, shaped by the soil and the coastal breeze, offering a depth of flavour that sets the foundation for something extraordinary.
Once these young wheels are formed, they travel to Betty Koster of L’Amuse — one of the Netherlands’ most respected affineurs, or opleggers. She carefully selects the cheeses she will age in her warm ripening rooms, kept at 14°C — a rare method for Gouda maturation. This warmer environment, paired with high humidity, coaxes out flavours of roasted hazelnuts, dark caramel, and buttered toast. The texture remains moist and silky, even after 24 months of ageing, and the paste develops a satisfying crunch from the formation of tyrosine crystals.
This cheese is the result of true collaboration — between land, maker, and maturer — with each element enhancing the final wheel.
A little history about Gouda
Gouda’s roots stretch back to the Middle Ages — not as a place of production, but as a marketplace. Farmers from surrounding regions would bring their cheeses to the town of Gouda, where wheels were officially weighed and traded. That’s how the cheese got its name.
Dutch merchants were savvy traders, and Gouda travelled widely. A particularly fascinating exchange took place with Bordeaux: Dutch ships would arrive with cheese and return with barrels of red wine. For practicality, the Gouda wheels were stored in the emptied wine barrels for the journey back. The cheese didn’t absorb the flavour of the wine, but the tannins in the wood turned the wax coating a rich, reddish hue — a visual reminder of the voyage.
Waxing was more than aesthetic — it was essential. The Netherlands’ position below sea level meant high humidity and salty air, both of which posed a threat to cheese preservation. The wax helped protect the wheels during ageing and on long sea voyages. As Dutch ships explored new trade routes, wheels of Gouda went with them — compact, long-lasting, and full of nourishment — carrying the story of Dutch cheesemaking across the globe.
